Epoxy flooring, answered honestly

Foot traffic in 12–24 hours, furniture in 24–72, vehicles after 5–7 days.

Temperature shifts those windows, so you get exact dates for your floor before we start.

10–20 years in a home garage or basement. 5–10 under forklifts and steel wheels, then a recoat — which is cheap, because the prep is already done.

Prep decides this, not the epoxy. We grind every floor rather than acid-etch it.

• Bare concrete — yes. The ideal surface. We grind it first so the coating keys in.
• An existing coating — maybe. Sound and bonded, we abrade and go over it. Peeling or bubbling, it comes off first — we do that too.
• Tile, wood, vinyl or carpet — no. Epoxy needs concrete. Those come out first.

We tell you which you have at the estimate, before you have committed to anything.

Priced by the square foot. Four things move it:

• Size. Bigger floors cost less per foot.
• Slab condition. Cracks, spalling and old coatings add repair time.
• System. Solid color is cheapest, flake mid, metallic premium.
• Extras. Non-slip, striping, cove base, heavier build.

We will not quote a floor we have not seen. Call (217) 417-5950 — the estimate is free, itemized and in writing.

Yes — free, on-site, no obligation. We measure, check the slab for moisture and damage, bring real color and flake samples, and leave an itemized written quote.

No trip charge anywhere in our 50+ mile area.

Yes — completely clear, so we can grind it. Anything mounted to the wall can stay.

Short on space? Plan on the driveway or a trailer for a couple of days. We confirm exactly how long at the estimate.

Usually. Epoxy cures by reaction, not drying, but most systems want the slab above about 55°F.

In an unheated January garage that means we bring heat or book a warmer stretch. Heated shops, warehouses and basements run year-round.

Dry, it grips like any smooth surface. Wet, it can get slick — which matters in a garage in winter.

Fix: we broadcast fine non-slip aggregate into the topcoat wherever you want it. Flake floors already carry some texture. Tell us where it gets wet.

Two resins, and most good floors use both.

• Epoxy builds thickness and bonds hard to prepared concrete. Ambers slightly in strong UV, cures slowly in cold.
• Polyaspartic cures in hours, stays clear in UV, tolerates cold — but it is thin, pricey, and has a working window of minutes.

So: epoxy base for build and bond, polyaspartic or urethane clear on top. “One-day polyaspartic” trades film build for speed — a real trade-off, not a free upgrade.

Spring through fall we book two to four weeks out. Winter is often quicker for heated spaces.

We can almost always look sooner — estimates usually within a few days, free, no trip charge. Call (217) 417-5950 and we will tell you honestly where the calendar stands.

• Sweep or dust mop; wet mop with warm water and a mild cleaner.
• Skip citrus and vinegar cleaners, and soaps that leave a film.
• Wipe up gas, brake fluid and battery acid rather than letting them sit.
• Put a scrap of plywood under a floor jack or jack stand.

That is the whole list — we leave a care sheet behind with it written out.